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JUMPING 

Dogs jump up to say hello, quite simply. They don't know how humans prefer to be greeted, and it never occurs to them that they might knock us over or ruin our clothes. Thankfully, consistent anti-jump training can quickly solve the problem for good.

 

Anti-jump training when you arrive home

  • Open the door a teeny bit. If your dog jumps up, close the door. 
  • Repeat until you can step through the door without your dog jumping up.  
  • If he jumps on you, turn away. If he keeps jumping, go back outside and start  again. 
  • Whenever your dog keeps four paws on the floor, praise and pet him.

  

Anti-jump training inside your house

  • When your dog jumps on you, turn your back to him. Say, "Too bad" as you turn away. 
  •  When he stops jumping, turn around to face him. If he jumps again, turn your back to him again. 
  • Repeat until he stops jumping. Then pet and praise him. 
  • If your dog keeps jumping up when you turn your back, walk away from him, ignoring him completely. If he follows and jumps again, give him a time-out. Either close a door between you or put him in his confinement area for a minute or two. (The point is not that he is being bad, but that you won't play when he jumps.)

  

Anti-jump training when visitors come to your house 

  • When someone comes to the house, put your dog on leash before you open the door. 
  • Open the door and invite the visitor in. If your dog jumps up, tell him, "Too bad" and walk him away from the visitor. Once he calms down, let him try again.
  • Leave the leash on your dog during the visit. You don't have to hold it the entire time, but if at any point during the visit your dog jumps up on your visitor, grab the leash, tell your dog, "Too bad" and walk him away. 
  • Remember to praise and reward him with pets and attention when he keeps four paws on the floor.

 

Anti-jump training when you meet people on the street 

  • If your dog jumps up on someone approaching you on the street, tell him, "Too bad" and walk a few feet away. When he settles, try again-if the person is willing.                                                                             

 

Once your dog can keep four paws on the floor in the above situations (and you have trained sit), begin to ask for a sit before he says hello. With time and practice, your dog will automatically sit when he wants to greet people.

 

Training Tip: The key to anti-jump training is consistency. You can end jump-up greetings for good if you turn away every time.

 

Troubleshooting: Be patient. It might get worse before it gets better. If your dog has used jumping as his main way to say hello, it will take a little while for him to learn new ways. 

 

 

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DESENSITISATION, what is it?

Desensitisation is the process of changing a dog's association with an object, animal, or person from something scary to something safe. It works by exposing the dog to the scary thing a little at a time and always at a level with which she is comfortable.

(From your perspective a stroller or a man with sunglasses may not seem scary at all, but to your dog anything strange and unfamiliar can be frightening. Fear is not necessarily logical.)



What's with all the barking?

Sometimes undesirable behaviours (barking, growling, lunging, snarling, snapping) are caused by fear or discomfort-this happens when the dog learns that growling or barking will make something move farther away from her.

In such cases, the dog is expressing her fear, but many people react by punishing the dog. While this sometimes stops the behaviour, it doesn't change the way the dog feels, which means we now have a potentially dangerous situation: A dog that no longer shows she is upset. Push such a dog beyond her comfort level and her only option is to bite. If you have ever heard anyone say, "I don't understand what happened. She seemed fine. Then she bit," these stories are often about dogs that have been punished for making their discomfort known.

Dogs don't growl or bark to be naughty. It is how they express fear, discomfort, or a desire for distance between themselves and another object, animal, or person. The best way to stop the behaviour is to change the underlying emotion. A dog that loves something doesn't growl at it.

 

 



The 3 Ds: Distance, Duration, Distraction

When you work to change your dog's bad feeling about something, there are three factors you can adjust to make sure you stay within her comfort zone. We call those factors the 3 Ds. 

Distance: Put more distance between your dog and whatever is scaring her.

Duration: Keep interactions between your dog and whatever is scaring her short. A few seconds is a good place to start.

Distraction: Distract your dog with a cheerful voice and treats. 

If your dog shows any sign of discomfort (pulling away, ducking, barking), adjust one or more of the Ds: Get further away, dish out more treats, or shorten the time your dog spends in the situation.

 

 

 

 

 

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SOCIALISATION 

What is it? 

Socialisation is the developmental process whereby puppies and adolescent dogs familiarise themselves with their constantly changing surroundings. It is how they work out what is safe and good as opposed to what is dangerous and not-so-good.

Anything you want your puppy to cheerfully accept as an adult-people of all kinds, animals, things, and situations-you must introduce her to often and in a positive manner in the first 6 months of her life. Then you have to make sure she stays comfortable with all these new things.

 

But puppies love everything already!

Sure they do. Until the early stage of their development draws to a close. At that point, they become wary of other dogs if they have met too few. And down the road, puppies can become shy or growly around children or strangers, too, unless they have met and enjoyed meeting a bunch of them.

Under-socialised dogs are at much greater risk of developing all sorts of behavioural problems stemming from fear-aggression, agoraphobia, and reactivity towards certain people and animals, for example.

Teach your puppy that the world is safe and prevent behavior problems in the future.

 

How to socialise your puppy.

Think about the things your puppy will see every week as an adult: Visit those places, see those people, or experience those things now.

Help your puppy form positive associations: Cheer and praise her when she encounters something new. Offer a treat whenever possible.

Step 1. If your puppy seems even a bit nervous, move a little distance away, give her treats, and then walk away-anything she is unsure about should be encountered in short bursts.

Step 2. As soon as your puppy seems more relaxed, try again. As she sees or hears the thing that scared her before, start your cheerful praise and break out the treats.

Step 3. If your puppy did not seem nervous with the new thing or acts curious about it after she has been treated, go back and let her investigate a little more. Again, praise and treat.

 

 

Training Tip: When you move away from any new thing, go quiet and stop the treats. We want your puppy to learn that the presence of the thing is what makes you give her the food. That way, she begins to associate the food with the new experience and realises that, "Hey, that new thing isn't so bad after all."

 

 


 

 

CRATE TRAINING

Why crate train your dog?

Because a crate is a terrific training and management tool. It is useful for house-training, brief alone-time, settling, and any form of travel. Most importantly, a crate teaches your dog to hold it when he has to go to the bathroom. A crate helps your dogs in many ways-and saves your carpets.

 

Is using a crate cruel?

Absolutely not. A crate can be your dog's favourite place in the world. Use treats, praise, and toys to make your dog love his crate.

Just remember never to use the crate for more than 3-4 hours at a time, except for bedtime.

 

Getting your dog used to the crate.

Step 1. Begin crate training right away-preferably the first day your dog is in your home.

Step 2. Throw small tasty treats into the crate one at a time. Praise your dog when he goes in to get the treat.

Step 3. When your dog is comfortable going into the crate, practice closing the door for 1-2 seconds, then treat him through the door. Let him back out. Repeat this step many times, gradually building to 10 seconds.

Step 4. Stuff a Kong with something very yummy or use a special bone that will take a lot of time to chew. Put the treats in the crate. Shut the door. Move about the house normally. Let your dog back out after 5 minutes or when he finishes his treat. Don't make a fuss over him. Repeat this step several times, varying the length of your absences from 1 to 20 minutes.

Step 5. Next, leave your dog in the crate with something delicious while you leave the house for short errands, like getting the mail or watering the garden. Gradually build your absences.

 

 

 

Training Tip: When you plan to crate your dog for longer than an hour, make sure he is well exercised and ready for a nap.

 

Troubleshooting: If your dog is going to the bathroom in his crate, remove any bedding and make sure he has been to toilet before you put him in the crate, and that he is not being left for too long. Make sure you are following the rules for good toilet training. If all else fails, contact us.